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1984 Fj60 Rate Topic: ***** 2 Votes

#61 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 24 December 2010 - 09:15 PM

I finally saved enough coins to have JimC (A guy I found out about over on IH8MUD) rebuild a carb for my 60. I am very confident that will help a few issues.

Once I get the rebuilt carb here, I will swap the intake manifold to get rid of the 2 hairline cracks in it. (That gray donor rig keeps giving and giving)

So far the gray has "donated" to the RED
  • HFS 2.5 lift/HFS 1" shackle lift
  • 33" BFG A/t's
  • Nice custom ordered rims
  • radiator
  • catalytic converter, and all the exhaust.
  • 2 carbs
  • intake/exhaust manifold
  • rear bench seat and belts.
  • numerous gray interior pieces.
Not bad for 1200.

I really want to start driving this whenever and wherever.

The donor rig is about to go away, all I have left to do is pull the block/tranny/t-case. I'm sure I will take more than that from it and look at for a few years. Really wish we had more of a market for 60/62's around here.

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#62 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 31 December 2010 - 08:00 PM

This came in the mail the other day.

http://www.summitrac...arts/SMT-31811/

Took the front seats out again to swap in the donors front carpet and install the new center console.

Will probably start the stereo install soon as well. I'll be running a cheapo Jensen until I find what I want. I plan on mounting some extra gauges in the stock stereo compartment as well.

Found this online

http://www.amazon.co...d=3DG8D8383VK4N
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#63 User is offline   mwilley 

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Posted 01 January 2011 - 09:58 AM

Let us know when your rig is ready and we will take it on a snow run!!!
1974 Land Cruiser FJ40
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#64 User is offline   mwilley 

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Posted 01 January 2011 - 10:02 AM

View PostNolanVoid, on 31 December 2010 - 08:00 PM, said:

This came in the mail the other day.

http://www.summitrac...arts/SMT-31811/



I have almost the exact same center console in my land cruiser, only it does not have the stereo compartment. It has worked really well and I am happy with it! I only wish I ordered it from Summit instead of 4 Wheel Parts.


1974 Land Cruiser FJ40
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#65 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 10:07 AM

Had a late night out in the garage doing a few installs.

Got the Smittybilt Console in and grey shoulder belts.
Posted Image
Rear bench seat all cleaned up and in with grey belts.
Posted Image
And my favorite mod last night, took the rear hatch shocks off the donor rig and put them to work.
Posted Image
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#66 User is offline   mwilley 

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Posted 17 January 2011 - 09:33 AM

It is starting to look good
1974 Land Cruiser FJ40
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#67 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 17 January 2011 - 03:56 PM

Should get my carb back within a week. I still need to get the carb blower working and then swap out the cracked intake manifold. Will probably "try" to remove my air injection tubes at that time. Mine look very rusted, and the sight of a wrench may break them, so I hope they will come out with liberal PB Blaster.
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#68 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 03:43 PM

View Postmwilley, on 17 January 2011 - 09:33 AM, said:

It is starting to look good


Are insinuating that it looked bad when I got it? j/k

Thanks for the compliment!
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#69 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 29 January 2011 - 10:31 PM

Trying to prep everything for when the rebuilt carb gets here so I can just put it on. What I thought was a "hairline crack" looked like this after I had a closer look. I cleaned the bottom up to find it did in fact have a complete crack. Guess this is common on these rigs. Hopefully I won't have much of an issue since I have now fixed the "carb cooler" as well.
Posted Image

I was on my way to track down a universal socket joint to get at the last bolt, but thought one more try wouldn't hurt and finally got it removed from the motor today. Still have to clean up the threads on the bolts I removed or find the ones I took off the donor rig. I also want to run a tap in the threads to clean them up a bit so the Loctite will have something to bite on to.

Here's it's replacement.
Posted Image

I started on the air tube as well, only got one to move. They are very rusted!! PB Blaster should come make a commercial on this if it works.
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#70 User is offline   rwilley 

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 05:33 PM

So how close are you from wheeling your rig? We have to get out on a snow run before it melts.
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#71 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 05:57 PM

View Postrwilley, on 31 January 2011 - 05:33 PM, said:

So how close are you from wheeling your rig? We have to get out on a snow run before it melts.


Still waiting on the carb to get here. Then I get to try and pass smog again. If all goes well...2 weeks :clap:
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#72 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 06:55 PM

Carb will be here TOMORROW!! Finally...

Okay, so I did some digging around and found SOR's heat insulator plate made of stainless steel. Rather then buy it, I made it.
Posted Image


I've read a thread or two on removing the shaft and valve, then welding up the hole, but can't I just cut the "wings" off and keep the shaft in there? I have everything off and would rather do it once. The other option is to trim the valve so it will still operate, but not hit the plate.

I mocked the intake/exhaust up and notice the mounting holes to the block seem way off. The only solution I can think of is to make the heat riser plate out of 14 or 16 gauge instead. I know the gaskets will compress some, but I think 10 gauge may be to thick.
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#73 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 16 February 2011 - 07:56 PM

Going to ditch the 10 gauge plate I made (good thing it was free) I would have to have the exhaust manifold machined down to make everything fit.

Should have it up and running sometime next week with another pre-test.
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#74 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 12:44 PM

Everything is back on and after few set-backs is running again.

I get to take the carb back off though, looks like the manifold is leaking. I torqued them in the proper order to 36 ft lbs, guess I have to go a tad tighter. Think I need to replace the seal for the exhaust down pipe as well, bolts are tight, but exhaust is getting out. Bummer.

I went ahead and swapped on the EGR cooler from the donor too, cleaner is better.

Stoked I got to hear it run again though!!

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#75 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 21 February 2011 - 10:22 PM

So, I took it all apart again. I thought the leak was in between the intake/exhaust.

I was right.

I hope I fixed it by adding a gasket and getting everything snug.

Fired it back up, first turn. As quiet as a 2f can get!!

Wish me luck as the smog man sniff's my arsh again.
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#76 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 03:18 PM

3rd time was not a charm in my case. FAILED AGAIN!!!

The numbers actually got worse...

HC at idle is 320 (Max is 150)

CO at idle is 5.25 and 3.91 at 2500 RPM (Max is 1.20)

Ugh...bout ready to kick this thing to the curb.

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#77 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 09:56 PM

PASSED...the pre-test.

Upon "real deal" test, EGR---Failed.

Not a problem, I have 2 spares. Swap it on and get that sticker!!

The numbers looked like a frickin Prius!!

FAILED the "real deal" test, I am now labeled as a Gross Polluter...

EVERYTHING was great, except CO(%) at 2500RPM was at 2.84. max is 1.2.

Looks like I get to go through the AI system again...

Funny thing is 4 hours earlier all was great, except EGR.

So, I took off the EGR, cleaned up the tube to the intake. Found a huge carbon build up, hence the reason the EGR failed. Don't know what changed after that, but with the EGR now in the loop of things, the rig now has a slight hesitation.

My shins are sore from kicking trees, think I'll take a break from this thing for the rest of the day. sigh.Posted ImagePosted Image
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#78 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 03 April 2011 - 08:52 AM

Time for an update.

I am disappointed in "previous owners".

Found some time to tinker with the AI system again and was on my way to remove the check valve in front of the air rail. I removed the air bypass and smog pump inlet hoses.

For some reason, I decided to cup my hand around one end of the inlet hose and blow through it. CLOGGED...

So, I look at side that goes to the air cleaner and some jackwagon decided to stuff a piece of very hard plastic in there. Looked like a lens cover for some small light.

I don't know his intentions, but I know my smog pump won't work without air getting to it. Broke it with a rubber mallet and put everything back together.

All new belts and a MUCH quieter engine compartment!! Short drive around the block yielded an ear to ear smile. I want to go through the Emissions Manual one more time to check the ABV.

Really excited about what I found this morning. More previous owner wrongs...

I decided to tear into my relief valve and open up the air bypass valve, found a bunch of sticky build up. Started my tests again, ie. CHECK VTV AND ASV. Still could not get air to come out of the bypass hose. After some head scratching, I tracked down the culprit.

My VTV was not connected to VSV(1) Port F.

I ran some BG Intake system cleaner through my block Friday night and added some BG 44K to the fuel.

re-test as soon as I get a chance. :cheers:
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#79 User is offline   fishontro 

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 07:04 PM

FINALLY PASSED!!

Now you pre-smog guys can't call me a Gross Polluter anymore.
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#80 User is offline   rwilley 

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 10:34 AM

View Postfishontro, on 08 April 2011 - 07:04 PM, said:

FINALLY PASSED!!

Now you pre-smog guys can't call me a Gross Polluter anymore.


Congratulations :thumbup:. I'm glad I don't have to worry about smog stuff.
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