[callahan253]

I was wondering if it were possible to swap an 89 3.0 Toyota V6 into an 89 4runner with a 22RE engine in it without having to change anything. The 22RE is a great engine, but I need something that can keep me going 70 mph on the freeway as a quick fix. Any info would help. Here is a picture of the 89.

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[sandymn]

callahan253, on 13 December 2009 - 11:02 AM, said:

I was wondering if it were possible to swap an 89 3.0 Toyota V6 into an 89 4runner with a 22RE engine in it without having to change anything. The 22RE is a great engine, but I need something that can keep me going 70 mph on the freeway as a quick fix. Any info would help. Here is a picture of the 89.

the toyota v6 engines are very reliable if i were you looking for just some additional power for freeway driving i would look into checking your gear ratio it should have 4.11 i would change to a 4.56 or 5.13 depending on tire size and your off roading. i would not put the v6 in you will need the wiring harness and computer its not worth anyone who knows toyotas knows that v6 was the worst engine ever made and are not easy to work on especially when the head gaskets blow or heads crack cause they will.hope i helped you might check you eghaust to see if it might be plugging my friend has the same rig and has 37 inch toyos and 4cyl with 5.13 does 70 with no prob.

[callahan253]

sandymn, on 17 December 2009 - 10:40 PM, said:

the toyota v6 engines are very reliable if i were you looking for just some additional power for freeway driving i would look into checking your gear ratio it should have 4.11 i would change to a 4.56 or 5.13 depending on tire size and your off roading. i would not put the v6 in you will need the wiring harness and computer its not worth anyone who knows toyotas knows that v6 was the worst engine ever made and are not easy to work on especially when the head gaskets blow or heads crack cause they will.hope i helped you might check you eghaust to see if it might be plugging my friend has the same rig and has 37 inch toyos and 4cyl with 5.13 does 70 with no prob.

Thanks for the tips. I will consider that. Here is another question I asked in one of my earlier posts that did not get answered for months, would it be possible to put a 22RE in that hasn't been rebuilt but thoroughly cleaned and is sound? It was sitting in Lubbock, TX weather for a year without being touched. it turns over okay and just needs all the parts put on. any answers regarding this would be helpful.

[callahan253]

Here is another question. I was hoping to do a V8 swap on my 85 4runner, and was wondering if a 70-80s 350 Buick engine would work just as good as a 350 Chevy from the same year. We can get a deal for a fully loaded Buick, pulleys and all, cheaper than the 350 Chevy. all tips would be helpful. Here is a picture of the 85:

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[Billy D.]

I would think as long as there is nothing wrong internally with the toyota enging and the timing chain is in real good shape there shouldent be a problem with useing it. Before youe start it up though I would put some marvel mystery oil in the cyclenders for a couple of days before you start it just to make sure the rings are not stuck to the pistons.

I dont see where there would be much of a diffrence in useing a buick instead of a chevy I'm not sure what year they started but I know that buick was useing a chevy 350 in 1978 I had a Buick skylark that was powered by a 350 chevy out of the factory. I belive they even have the same motor mounts ( I would double check that though)

[callahan253]

I was also wondering if there was anything wrong with the Bronco 2s because I never see them lifted except for on the web and was wondering if there were any good reason for it. I was thinking of buying an 89 Bronco 2 and was wondering if there was anything I should be worried about.

[callahan253]

Never Mind, Bronco 2 definately out of the question. he wanted $3000 for it and that old and in that shape (excellent) on KBB is only worth 1500 at the most, I wouldn't even bother tryin to make him come down on the price. Also, is there any way to put a V8 in the toy without putting a body lift on?

This post has been edited by callahan253: 22 January 2010 - 07:31 PM

[rsc71]

callahan253, on 22 January 2010 - 07:30 PM, said:

Never Mind, Bronco 2 definately out of the question. he wanted $3000 for it and that old and in that shape (excellent) on KBB is only worth 1500 at the most, I wouldn't even bother tryin to make him come down on the price. Also, is there any way to put a V8 in the toy without putting a body lift on?

have seen 5.0 out of mustangs in them,but dont know if it had a body lift or not

[callahan253]

Just got the rebuilt engine with a new head for the 89, and am planning to put it in before summer gets here, also got the Buick 350 V8 for the 85. Have to get that beast in by next year. Wish me luck!

[Rockinelle]

Good Luck! Be sure to post up pics along the way

[callahan253]

I'm sorry I didn't take pictures, but I just kind of got caught up in the moment. The engine is in and I will be sure to post pictures of the aftermath, but I have a problem: There is some oil leaking out of the rear of the engine between the engine and transmission and I can't seem to place the exact location of the leak. I think that it would either be the rear main seal or the back of the valve cover leaking although I'm a little unsure. If anybody has any idea of where it could be coming from, please post a reply. Also, there is a large amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust (everything after the cat is gone). It could either be that there is a whole bunch of junk in the original cat or something is wrong with the engine. Any thoughts on that would also be greatly appreciated. This rebuild was done in a total time of about 20 hours over a course of one month, so it is possible to do something right and fast at the same time. Just don't get in a rush to get done or something could go wrong. Thanks for all the help and advice.

[Billy D.]

callahan253, on 23 May 2010 - 06:48 PM, said:

I'm sorry I didn't take pictures, but I just kind of got caught up in the moment. The engine is in and I will be sure to post pictures of the aftermath, but I have a problem: There is some oil leaking out of the rear of the engine between the engine and transmission and I can't seem to place the exact location of the leak. I think that it would either be the rear main seal or the back of the valve cover leaking although I'm a little unsure. If anybody has any idea of where it could be coming from, please post a reply. Also, there is a large amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust (everything after the cat is gone). It could either be that there is a whole bunch of junk in the original cat or something is wrong with the engine. Any thoughts on that would also be greatly appreciated. This rebuild was done in a total time of about 20 hours over a course of one month, so it is possible to do something right and fast at the same time. Just don't get in a rush to get done or something could go wrong. Thanks for all the help and advice.

If the oil is coming from between the flywheel/flexplate and the block or pan I would venture to say that the rear main seal is leaking if it's coming from around the out side of the bell housing it may be a valve cover gasket or a rear intake/valley cover gasket leaking.
White smoke useally indicates water, light grey or a slight blue color would be oil

[callahan253]

No good. As I understand, the first time you start a new/rebuild engine it will smoke for about 5 minutes. As of right now, there is a grand total of 1hr 5min of smoking time. Something has to be wrong with the engine. The smoke is blue, knocking off the possibility of junk in the cat and a water leak. Am calling the engine place tomorrow and take it up with them. Still under warranty, so I can't experiment with it yet. Driving it, although, was an experience. It smoked horribly, but it sounded beautiful, especially with, basically, no exhaust. Really disappointing though. Paid $1200 for the engine only to find issues. Such a good truck. The resurrection is a partial failure.

[LittleBroII]

bronco ii's are awesome little rigs u can pick one up for $500 and go a lot of places with it and with a 8.8 in the rear and a dana 44 in the front with 35-37 in tires they go any where. weak points about the bronco ii is the small dana 28 and the small 7.5 rear diff and the eletric transfer cases suck but not to bad to swap to a stick

[Billy D.]

it's asibility that they put the wrong size ring's in std in .030 bore that will turn it into a smoke machine (I know from experiance always check the ring gap) or it's a possability they broke a ring when building the engine up. ether way you right the engine should only smoke for a few min on first start up to burn off the assembly lube useally oil on the pistons. how bad is it smoking because I have had trouble with getting Chromolly rings to seat before and that will cause it to smoke too. do a compression test on it and see if all the cyclenders are close to the same they should all be the same but can vary a few PSI this will give you an idea if it's a broken ring or maybe they forgot to put one of the compression rings on (it could happen).
I'm dealing with an issue with my oldest boy's camero He bought a short block crate engine from Kragen that was rebuilt in a facility in Spokane Wa. that I think has a cracked cylender the deck was surface and so were the heads but it's blowing coolant out of the radiator fill neck (I told him not to buy a short block) they can't be compression tested till the heads are on.
Anyway good luck

[callahan253]

Smoking problem fixed and it is the rear main seal leaking. The engine just had an abnormally large amount of lube in it and had to burn it all off. Will continue to fix the seal within the next few weeks.

[Billy D.]

callahan253, on 30 May 2010 - 01:49 AM, said:

Smoking problem fixed and it is the rear main seal leaking. The engine just had an abnormally large amount of lube in it and had to burn it all off. Will continue to fix the seal within the next few weeks.

they must have used alot of oil when installing the pistons then. Is or was the engine building up alot of crank case pressure because that could cause the rear main seal to leak. I am only curious about this because of the ecessive oil burn off maybe one of the rings was stuck or had a hard time seating in causing too much crank case pressure and pushing a little oil out of the rear main seal.

[callahan253]

Yes, they did use a large amount of lube, but this company was recommended by many many shops across the state, so we decided to use them.

I am in the process of replacing the rear main seal. Turns out the alternator was also completely shot and had to get a rebuild one. Luckily this one has a lifetime warrenty and can be replaced at no charge. Good ol' Texas friendliness if you ask me. I was on my way back from north of town and it completely shut down a block from my house, so i ended up pushing it a block and up my steep driveway into my garage for a quick charge. Thank you for all your help and I hope to see this thing running great real soon.

Also, I found a Performance Chip on Ebay and was wondering if it would be a good idea to put it on the 22RE. It guarantees 30%+ better gas mileage and 100+ HP and up to 73 ft/lb of torque for $25. Sounds like a good deal and if I don't like it, it was only $25 instead of $250, right? Anyways, please post a reply on this predicament.

This post has been edited by callahan253: 07 August 2010 - 05:41 PM

[callahan253]

Horrible, stupid, idiotic mistake!!! The rear main seal was as dry as a bone! I had to take the transmission and a few other things out to figure out that it was the half moon seal leaking on the back! I feel like a total idiot. Luckily, though, I did get to fill the transmission and transfer case up with oil while it was out. That made things a whole lot eisier on my part. Please reply to the questions on the last reply I made!!!

[callahan253]

Bad news guys, the truck overheated on the first day with snow due to a cracked radiator hose and got the engine so hot it began to fire by itself. When I shut it off, it began to act like a diesel and keep going. If the engine is ruined, I'm in the market for something else. I can't risk another $1200 on some stupid flaw.

On the other hand, is there any car bodies that are able to attach to the 1989 Toyota 4runner 4x4 frame? I've seen many people with a similar setup, but only on Chevrolet or Ford frames. I think that it would add some pizazz to the whole offroad thing down here. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

There are a multiplicity of issues going on with all of the 4x4s we own. The 85 4runner is on it's last leg. The 89 is (hopefully temporarily) dead as of now. We do have a 350 Buick motor for the 85, but I need a reliable vehicle before I get my toy running. All of these projects are at a standstill due to all of the bad winter weather. -25 wind chill in west Texas!? That is the day the 89 overheated.

Sorry I haven't posted pics of the 89 yet, but I plan on it as soon as I am done. Wish me luck on fixing the 89!