[Green Machine]

well, im currently taking a class at shasta college for rebuilding engines. i bought the 351m out of predator's bronco to use as my project engine. i have lots of pictures but i dont know how to get them off of my cell phone and onto the computer. the block just came out of the hot tank today as well as the heads which will all be magna-fluxed next week. i dont want to put too much money into it so one question i have is would it be better to re-use the old pistons or bore it .030 over and if i cant get the money for new pistons, sell the machined block by itself. the valves for sure are going to need to be replaced but the pistons and cylinders arent too bad. same goes for the heads. i can do all the machine work but would it be better for me to buy new valves and springs and stuff, or just sell the heads after the machine work is done so someone can put exactly what they want in them. im not really looking to make money off of them, just to learn on and get back what i spent on them.

[Rockinelle]

Sounds like a cool project, I've been reading a lot on the subject this week. Just got the bug for some reason.

Curious to see what the engine experts have to advise.

[76 Patriot]

Remanufacturing engines (minor technicality, unless you're selling it). Rebuilds are done under the shade tree. Remanufactured engines get torn down, checked for tolerances, machined to specs (if necessary), then reassembled.

Anyway...

The previous instructor out there had many contacts in that industry and his students typically got the 'good guy' deal on master kits etc. I don't know if those deals are still available under the new instructor.

IMO, boring the cyls will be determined by their condition. I would check the block first before making that decision. If everything is within specs, don't bother. Hone the block and be done with it. The parts cost for the heads should just be seats and guides, unless you have broken components. And seals, if you're not going to buy the master kit.

Are you planning to keep the motor? If not, just do the basic machine work and sell it. If you want the build experience also, then I recommend buying what you need to do it right.

I believe the college still out-sources the cam, rod and crank work and Lanny at Lanny's Engines used to be one of the vendors for master kits.

I don't know the new instructor, but that used to be a very comprehensive machinists class. Most of the machinists and some of the machine shop owners in town took those classes, as did a few engine builders currently in NASCAR. You'll get out of it what you put into it.

[Green Machine]

well, the cylinders look like they are in pretty good shape. i wont know for sure until i check them with a dial bore gauge. i will be decking the block because while it was in the hot tank, another students cylinder head fell over and took out a small chip in the top of one of the cylinders. this will also raise the compression so in the end, it will work out good.

when i removed the valves from the heads, they didnt want to come out easily, the keeper groves had some wear on them and i had to sand them down in order to get them to fit through the valve guides. so the valves will be replaced as well.

i dont plan on keeping the engine since i dont have anthing to put it in. i will definately be checking all tolerances and specifications.

[Green Machine]

well, i was able to magna-flux the block yesterday and there were no cracks. i think im just going to try to use the old pistons but i might get an rv cam for it. any other suggestions?

[76 Patriot]

Green Machine, on 29 September 2009 - 11:15 AM, said:

well, i was able to magna-flux the block yesterday and there were no cracks. i think im just going to try to use the old pistons but i might get an rv cam for it. any other suggestions?

I would keep it as OEM as possible if you plan on selling it. That way the buyer can do whatever mods they want.

Or find someone who needs one and will pay for a built to order engine, then you can do the machining/mods for them and get paid for it when you're done.

[Predator]

Wish I was in the market for an engine and i would consider buying it back, but mine still runs real strong.

[Green Machine]

well, after checking with the dial bore gauge, it turns out that this engine is already bored .030 over to a 357. the cylinders are in good shape so they will just be honed. pistons also appear to be in good shape. im wondering if the cam is stock now

[Predator]

Green Machine, on 09 October 2009 - 04:56 PM, said:

well, after checking with the dial bore gauge, it turns out that this engine is already bored .030 over to a 357. the cylinders are in good shape so they will just be honed. pistons also appear to be in good shape. im wondering if the cam is stock now

Interesting!!! Are you going to check out the cam to see if it is stock?

[mwilley]

If you were rebuilding a chevy 350, I would be interested in maybe purchasing it...

[Green Machine]

haha well, i almost did get one. i had a guy offer me an unfinished 4bolt main bored .030 over for $250.



we shot blasted the heads today and we are going to do the block on wednesday. eventually i will powdercoat both.

This post has been edited by Green Machine: 12 October 2009 - 09:03 PM

[Green Machine]

Predator, on 09 October 2009 - 08:05 PM, said:

Interesting!!! Are you going to check out the cam to see if it is stock?

yeah, i just havent learned how yet lol

[rsc71]

Green Machine, on 12 October 2009 - 09:02 PM, said:

haha well, i almost did get one. i had a guy offer me an unfinished 4bolt main bored .030 over for $250.



we shot blasted the heads today and we are going to do the block on wednesday. eventually i will powdercoat both.

I got all sorts of motors you can work on

[Green Machine]

rsc71, on 13 October 2009 - 03:48 AM, said:

I got all sorts of motors you can work on

yeah and ill rebuild them all for a "nominal" fee



well i magna-fluxed the heads today and there were no cracks. we also checked for warpage and they werent warped. the other day we checked the springs and they were all bad so they will need to be replaced. we also baked the block at 700 degrees for a couple of hours to get out impurities and leftover shot from the shot blasting

[Green Machine]

just a little update on what i have been up to.

we have been doing a lot of measuring and stuff and we are finally getting somewhere. the crankshaft needs to be ground and i need to get a new camshaft. i allign honed the mains on friday and today i decked the block. we went .014 on one side and .009 on the other and got them within .001 of each other. we also got to use a neat tool after we were done. its called a profilometer. some of you guys may already know what they are. basicly it measures the RA (roughness average) of the machined surface. i was told that if i sent the block to a shop the roughness average would be around 50 which is acceptable. the RA of my engine is now 21 on one side and 11 on the other. basically its like a mirror finish

wednesday i may hone the cylinders if nobody else is using the machine. im getting to the point where this is going to start costing me money for parts

[Green Machine]

anybody know of a good place to get parts? by good i mean cheap

i need lots of parts. main, rod, and cam bearings, cam, lifters, valves, keepers, rings, valve guides, all gaskets and seals, timing chain/gears, and i know theres more im forgetting but that gives you an idea.

also, does anybody know of a good(cheap) place to get my crankshaft turned? the teacher mentioned a place in redding that will do it for $39 but ill have to ask him where its at.

[rsc71]

Green Machine, on 07 November 2009 - 10:22 PM, said:

anybody know of a good place to get parts? by good i mean cheap

i need lots of parts. main, rod, and cam bearings, cam, lifters, valves, keepers, rings, valve guides, all gaskets and seals, timing chain/gears, and i know theres more im forgetting but that gives you an idea.

also, does anybody know of a good(cheap) place to get my crankshaft turned? the teacher mentioned a place in redding that will do it for $39 but ill have to ask him where its at.

there is a place out of Oregon that has pretty good prices on rebuild kits,will see if i can find the web page

[Predator]

Green Machine, on 07 November 2009 - 10:22 PM, said:

anybody know of a good place to get parts? by good i mean cheap

i need lots of parts. main, rod, and cam bearings, cam, lifters, valves, keepers, rings, valve guides, all gaskets and seals, timing chain/gears, and i know theres more im forgetting but that gives you an idea.

also, does anybody know of a good(cheap) place to get my crankshaft turned? the teacher mentioned a place in redding that will do it for $39 but ill have to ask him where its at.

You can't turn them in that class?

[Green Machine]

Predator, on 09 November 2009 - 11:01 AM, said:

You can't turn them in that class?

nope. they dont have the machine to do it.

i did find a kit for $250 with everything i need for the bottom end. i need to get the crank turned first though so i know what undersize bearings to get. i might resurface the heads on wednesday. theres a guy whos been on the hone for about 2 weeks and we are just waiting for him to finish on it. one of these days i will figure out how to transfer the pictures on my phone

[theoii]

Green Machine, on 09 November 2009 - 10:54 PM, said:

nope. they dont have the machine to do it.

i did find a kit for $250 with everything i need for the bottom end. i need to get the crank turned first though so i know what undersize bearings to get. i might resurface the heads on wednesday. theres a guy whos been on the hone for about 2 weeks and we are just waiting for him to finish on it. one of these days i will figure out how to transfer the pictures on my phone

You can buy kits that include the crank or Grindstaff does cams and cranks and Ardens Machine does everything both in Redding