Heating Problem
#1
Posted 22 January 2009 - 07:28 PM
#2
Posted 22 January 2009 - 07:33 PM
#5
Posted 22 January 2009 - 08:01 PM
#6
Posted 22 January 2009 - 08:17 PM
The red land cruiser and the new one I am driving have flex fans and 4-core radiators; the only heating issues I have is in the summer time, and it might get up to 210 driving down the Freeway at 65mph.
#7
Posted 22 January 2009 - 09:03 PM
sage's son, on Jan 22 2009, 08:01 PM, said:
Thanks I have one too I thought of that too, If the shroud does'nt work I'll go to the Taurus fans, Mike your cruiser runs at 210 at 65, see I think thats to hot maybe I need to rethink my thinking....210 at 65 man thats hot I dont know. My buddy said I was thinking to much about straight line stuff... Not about street stuff 4x4 with 36's th400 trans
#8
Posted 22 January 2009 - 09:09 PM
#9
Posted 22 January 2009 - 09:20 PM
#10
Posted 22 January 2009 - 10:42 PM
tfpets, on Jan 22 2009, 09:20 PM, said:
I agree a stable temp whould be great but I dont know were that is, as for the 180 t-stat I dont have one in yet I thought about putting it in to see if I could keep it cooler. that said I'm just thinking whould my idle being high say 1000 make it run hotter? I went down to 600 but it does'nt seem to want to run very well, and could too hot of a plug make it run hotter......
#11
Posted 23 January 2009 - 07:06 AM
FJ40Rob, on Jan 22 2009, 10:42 PM, said:
I say keep the 195 in there, make sure it doesnt go over 210, and just drive it, there is nothing wrong with 200, there is nothing wrong with 210, just drive it! If it goes over 210 you could have another issue but it is NOT the t-stat...if it is going to run hot, a cooler t-stat isnt going to help it and it could make it worse! I know it sounds weird but trust me! In your original post you said you put in the 195 and the clutch fan and it was staying at 200? Sounds to me like you fixed it...and if you put a shroud on it, it will be that much better for cooling it in the warmer weather, but dont expect it to run any cooler now! The higher idle wont make it run hotter, as a matter of fact it could help to spin the fan faster and keep it cooler...and out of curiosity, what engine are you running and what kind of fuel system? Is it EFI or carb?
#12
Posted 23 January 2009 - 07:55 AM
I run hot going down the road at 65/70 for long periods especially uphill. The taurus fan/shroud combo helped. I need to go to a 4 core radiator. A jaunt out to Los Molinos would put me at around 210 -215. A run up to Mineral puts me at 230 peeks with pretty fast drops as I hit more level spots. That's too hot. Hence the need for a 4 core radiator. If I could keep my temp at a max 210 I'd be a happy camper.
my73fj40
#13
Posted 23 January 2009 - 08:37 AM
Storm, on Jan 23 2009, 07:55 AM, said:
I run hot going down the road at 65/70 for long periods especially uphill. The taurus fan/shroud combo helped. I need to go to a 4 core radiator. A jaunt out to Los Molinos would put me at around 210 -215. A run up to Mineral puts me at 230 peeks with pretty fast drops as I hit more level spots. That's too hot. Hence the need for a 4 core radiator. If I could keep my temp at a max 210 I'd be a happy camper.
Thanks for the input guys this is what I'm looking for I know 200 is'nt bad but for some reason in my mind it is, I'm going to put the shroud on and run it. What do think about running the electric fan in front of the radiator pushing air if the shroud does't work..
#14
Posted 23 January 2009 - 08:40 AM
#15
Posted 23 January 2009 - 08:49 AM
rsc71, on Jan 23 2009, 08:40 AM, said:
Sounds like you guys like the taurus fans I'll go get one if this doesn't work
#16
Posted 23 January 2009 - 09:26 AM
FJ40Rob, on Jan 22 2009, 07:49 PM, said:
This will only make your t-stat open sooner, not allowing coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to 'cool'. Eventually, when the temp of your coolant gets high enough, the t-stat will stay open and your coolant will constantly cycle through causing overheating, just like not having a t-stat. Like tfpets stated, this will only make it worse.
I had a similar problem in my Scout. I swapped in a 392 in place of the 345 and I couldn't keep it cool at lower rpms and idle. I had the stock radiator, clutch fan w/ shroud, and similar to your thinking a lower temp t-stat, and a higher pressure radiator cap. Not only would my rig run hot at idle, but the pressure in the 30 year old radiator was too high, causing leaks. The clutch fan worked fine as long as I was running around 1500 rpm and higher, but at stop lights and off road the temp would shoot up.
I changed to a higher temp t-stat, a lower pressure rad cap. This helped a little, but didn't cure the high temps at low rpm. Then I added an electric pusher fan (push or pull doesn't matter, it all depends on where you can mount it). Now, at speed with the clutch fan it runs at normal operating temp which is around 205-210 (I think; idiot gage at half way = normal operating temp). When I am in traffic or on the trail (low rpm = clutch fan not working) and the gauge starts to creep above half way, I switch on the electric fan. Problem solved.
392 / 727 / D44's / 3.73 open / SOA / RS
If you won't stand behind our troops, feel FREE to stand in front of them!
I didnt know you had a rig that could go on runs???...I thought it was in a perpetual state of testing!!!
#17
Posted 23 January 2009 - 09:47 AM
76 Patriot, on Jan 23 2009, 09:26 AM, said:
I had a similar problem in my Scout. I swapped in a 392 in place of the 345 and I couldn't keep it cool at lower rpms and idle. I had the stock radiator, clutch fan w/ shroud, and similar to your thinking a lower temp t-stat, and a higher pressure radiator cap. Not only would my rig run hot at idle, but the pressure in the 30 year old radiator was too high, causing leaks. The clutch fan worked fine as long as I was running around 1500 rpm and higher, but at stop lights and off road the temp would shoot up.
I changed to a higher temp t-stat, a lower pressure rad cap. This helped a little, but didn't cure the high temps at low rpm. Then I added an electric pusher fan (push or pull doesn't matter, it all depends on where you can mount it). Now, at speed with the clutch fan it runs at normal operating temp which is around 205-210 (I think; idiot gage at half way = normal operating temp). When I am in traffic or on the trail (low rpm = clutch fan not working) and the gauge starts to creep above half way, I switch on the electric fan. Problem solved.
I understand the t-stat theory now and if the shroud doesn't work I'm putting the e-fan up front pushing..
#18
Posted 23 January 2009 - 03:59 PM
#19
Posted 23 January 2009 - 09:06 PM
Also you may want to underdrive your water pump to slow the coolent flow down. Onk was having a bad over heating problem and we closed off some of the flow with a nickle size washer he still has a cooling problem but it's not as bad he also has a high flow water pump I have suguested to him to put a stocker back in.
#20
Posted 24 January 2009 - 06:56 PM
Billy D., on Jan 23 2009, 09:06 PM, said:
Also you may want to underdrive your water pump to slow the coolent flow down. Onk was having a bad over heating problem and we closed off some of the flow with a nickle size washer he still has a cooling problem but it's not as bad he also has a high flow water pump I have suguested to him to put a stocker back in.
Billy good to see your still out there are you on the road now? any way Ithink the over heating problem is over I'll let every one know thur or fri...

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